Foundation garment combination



March 22, 1955 WOHLMAN FOUNDATION GARMENT COMBINATION Filed April 13, 1953 Arm/em United States Patent FOUNDATION GARMENT COMBINATION Beatrice Wohlman, Forest Hills, N. Y.

Application April 13, 1953, Serial No. 348,230

8 Claims. (Cl. 2-30) This invention relates to womens wearing apparel, foundation garments and more particularly is directed to an improved brassiere construction of the strapless type in combination with co-acting girdle engaging means.

Among the objects of the invention is to generally improve wearing apparel foundation garment combinations of the character described which shall comprise few and simple parts that are readily assembled to provide, when worn, a comfortably fitted undergarment, which shall mold the contour of the wearers figure to desirable and fashionable lines, which shall retain said desired figure lines without shoulder straps in all ambulatory movements and positions of the wearers body, which may be manufactured as regular commercial relatively medium priced, high grade or custom made products, and which shall be practical and efiicient to a high degree in use.

Other objects of this invention will in part be obvious and in part hereinafter pointed out.

The invention accordingly consists of features of construction, combinations of elements and arrangements of parts which will be exemplified in the constructions hereinafter described and of which the scope of the application will be indicated in the claims following.

In the accompanying drawing in which possible illustrative embodiments of the invention are shown,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a model or wearer fitted with an improved combination foundation garment of strapless brassiere type and girdle having co-acting engaging means constructed and arranged to embody the invention.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the strapless type brassiere portion shown in the improved combination foundation garment spread flat with parts broken away to show details of construction.

Fig. 3 is an enlarged cross-sectional view taken on line 33 in Fig. 1 showing the improved combination with a brassire spring stay in slideable attachment engagement in a pocket piece carried on the girdle in practising the invention.

Figs. 4 and 5 are fragmentary front and side views of one of the spring stay ends capped by a leader finial, and

Fig. 6 is an enlarged sectional view taken on line 66 in Fig. 2 showing details of the passageway construction embracing a spring stay.

Referring in detail to the drawing and more particularly to Fig. 1, 10 denotes an improved strapless type boned brassiere, that is, having at least one pair of spring stays positioned to extend along the height of the brassire 10 and down beyond the lower or bottom hem 10a.

As seen in Figs. 1 and 2, brassiere 10 is provided with a center section 12 extending over and across the chest of the wearers body W, the latter being formed with breast pockets or cups 12a. Center section 12 may be of any well known strapless construction and includes so-called wire supporting means and is here shown to comprise a sternum covering panel 15a interposed be tween a pair of breast covering panels 15, each of which has an upper portion forming the under or supporting portion 12b of breast cup 12a, an upper or cover portion of each cup 12a being provided by an arcuateshaped panel 120. To opposite ends of said center section 12 under arm panels 14 are attached to which in turn are secured rear panels 17 to form a complete body encircling garment releasably held by suitable fastener means, here shown as co-acting rows of eyelets 19 and a row of eyelet hooks 19a.

It is intended that the present invention be utilized as a feature on strapless brassieres having any well known type of wire or stay supporting means, as for example, those incorporated to encircle the periphery of the breast pockets either completely or partially. The embodiment here shown utilizes a wire supporting means 20 arcuate in shape and extending about the lower periphery of each of the pockets 12a. Each wire 20 may be encased in a suitable protective fabric tape or sleeving 20a which is sewn by suitable stitching, as for example, a spaced double row of stitches 20b, to the inner side of brassiere 10 along the periphery of cups 12a.

Since the improvement here disclosed is best suited for combination with a so-called long waisted brassiere 10, breast panels 15, sternum panel 15a, underarm panels 14 and rear panels 17 are all of sufficient height or width so that bottom hem 10a, when fitted to the wearers body W, may extend a short distance down over top edge 13a of a girdle 13, as is clear from Figs. 1 and 3.

In order to obtain desired results cooperating with wire supporting means 20, one or more pairs of spring stay means may be incorporated to extend along the height or width of brassiere 10 and, as here shown, stays 11 are provided to extend substantially along the seams joining breast panels 15 and underarm panels 14, stays 11a extending substantially along the seams joining underarm panels 14 and rear panels 17, stays 11b extending substantially in alignment with apices 12d of cups 12a, and stays 11c extending substantially along opposite edges of sternum panel 15a.

Channels 01' passageways 16, 16a, 16b and 160 may be provided for stays 11, 11a, 11b and 110, respectively, by any suitable means, as for example, tape 18, attached by spaced double row stitching 18a to the inner side of the brassiere 10. For added strength where the passageways extend along the border of adjacent panels, the latter may overlap a distance substantially the width of tape 18, as is clear from Figs. 1, 2 and 6.

If desired, underarm panels 14 may each be made of flexible but inelastic double layers of gauze fabric and rear panels 17 of elastic material for exerting a desired compression body encircling force and provided with said releasable and adjustable connecting means, namely, spaced rows of eyelets 19 carried along a free edge border portion 17a of one of said elastic panels 17, and eyelet hooks 19a cooperatively positioned for engaging eyelets 19 carried along a free edge border portion 17b of the other panel 17 in the Well understood manner, as is clear from Fig. 2.

Breast panels 15 may be made of any suitable flexible relatively non-stretchable fabric and to enhance the appearance of the brassiere 10, arcuate-shaped panels 120 and sternum panel 15a may be made of a double layer gauze tastefully decorated with embroidery on the outer surfaces thereof (not shown).

If desired, other suitable trimming may be provided, such as, ruching 21, to extend along the top edge of panels 14 and panels 120.

In order to ensure a satisfactory and comfortable fit of strapless brassiere 10, free from undesirable sagging and slipping, at least one pair of stays 11, 11a, 11b and 11c are of a length sufficient to extend down beyond lower horizontal hem 10a, as is clear from Figs. 1, 2 and 3, arranged for cooperation in the manner hereinafter described. Stays 11, 11a, 11b and may be of any well known make and, as shown in Figs. 4 and 5, may be helically or spirally wound metallic spring wire, flattened, enameled or plastic coated and terminated by a leader finial or end cap 22.

In the medium and higher priced range of foundation garments, it is contemplated to provide a custom made product in practicing the invention. To that end, the wearer may have a corsetier, dressmaker, fitter or other person of less skill, fit brassiere 10 provided with one or more pairs of stays 11, 11a, 11b and 11c having ends extending downwardly beyond lower horizontal hem 10a to cooperatively engage with portion of girdle 13, preferably a short distance below top edge 13a thereof, as for example, by one or more pairs of patch pockets 23, or the equivalent means. The latter may be permanently attached to gridle 13 by suitable means, such as, an adhesive or stitches 23a, so that openings 23b thereof are aligned in register to receive and have inserted into said pockets 23 the downwardly extending ends of one or more pairs of said stays 11, 11a, 11b and 110, here shown in full lines at He in Figs. 1, 2 and 3.

Each of said stays 11, 11a, 11b and 110 may be retained in said downward projecting position by tack stitches 11d, as shown in Fig. 2. By the use of a patch pocket 23, only the simplest addition to a conventional type girdle 13 is required to utilize the invention herein with improved brassiere 10.

Girdle 13 may be provided with suitable spaced apart hose supports 13c suspending from a lower edge 13b thereof which tend to pull the lower end of the girdle 13 in a downwardly direction which has no effect on the fit provided by the portion of the wearers body embraced by improved brassiere 10.

The strapless brassire above described is thus seen to serve the important function of supporting the weight and down pressure of the wearers bust parts with maximum comfort and without the heretofore disadvantage of downward slipping of strapless garments, and at the same time, eliminating the discomfort associated with shoulder straps cutting into the flesh of the wearer.

It has been found that brassiere 10 renders satisfactory support for women having busts of average size and shape when the pair of stays 11, positioned substantially along the seams joining breast panels 15 and underarm panels 14 in approximate alignment with the front of the armpits of the wearer, are of the length extending down beyond said lower horizontal hem 10a as at Me to engage pockets 23 while the remaining stays 11a, 11b and 11c may be of conventional length and extend within the bounds of hem 10a, as shown in Fig. 1. If desired, along with the above described extended stays 11, stays 11a positioned in the rear of the garment may likewise be extended into aligning pockets positioned on girdle 13 to give support in the rear, as is clear from Figs. 1 and 2.

Within the scope of this invention, stays 11b and/or stays 11c may be extended beyond said horizontal hem 10a, as shown in broken lines in Fig. 2, to fit corresponding aligning pockets and used to supplement extended stays 11 and 11a or utilized instead of stays 11 where the size and shape of the wearers body so requires.

The upper ends of stays 11, 11b and 110 preferably extend, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, to cooperate for breast support with wire supporting means 20, as for example, stays 11 extending to lie in close proximity to wire supporting means in the armpit region, stays 11b extending across wire 20, and stays 11c extending to wire 20 in the sternum regions.

The utility of the invention will now be apparent. After manufacturing brassiere 10 from the parts and in the manner described above for the various requirements, the wearer W first dons a suitable girdle 13 and then puts on a properly sized improved strapless brassiere 10 of long waist construction having the lower edge hem 10a extending down below the girdle upper edge 13a, as shown in Fig. 1, a brassiere 10 having one or more pairs of the stays 11, 11a, 11b and 110 extending down below the lower edge of hem 10a being selected to meet the wearers requirements. Patch pockets 23 for each of the down extending stays 11, 11a, 11b and 110 are next marked off by a corsetier or fitter and then attached in cooperating scabbard-like aligning position for each of such down extending or projecting ends of said stays.

As shown in Figs. 1 and 3, patch pocket 23 is so positioned on girdle 13 that the end of down extending stay 11 normally rests on the bottom 230 of the pocket 23 for support thereby. Although the distance that stays 11, 11a, 11b and 110 extend below hem 10a may vary, a satisfactory result has been found where such distance approximates one and one-half inches and patch pocket 23 is sized and positioned to receive substantially the entliie down extending length of the stays 11, 11a, 11b and In ordinary use, girdle 13 with patch pockets 23 properly positioned and adjusted to properly receive and support one or more pairs of down extending stays 11, 11a, 11b and 110 is put on by the wearer, then said brassiere 10 is brought to encircle the body with the breasts positioned in cups 12a, the down extending portions of one or more of the pairs of stays 11, 11a, 11b and inserted in corresponding pockets 23, and the brassiere 10 fastened in body encircling position by engaging eyelet hooks 19a in eyelets 19.

Strapless brassiere 10 of the novel construction above described in combination with girdle 13 having properly aligned patch pockets 23, forms a smooth, wrinkle-proof strapless foundation garment which eliminates objectionable slipping down of strapless bras'sieres thereby overcoming existing limitations on the use of strapless brassieres to evening wear.

The present invention eliminates all uncomfortable and disfiguring displacement of the strapless brassiere due to normal movements of the wearer and the accompanying undesirable necessity of frequent readjustment of the garment by the wearer and, at the same time, obviates the use of shoulder straps which particularly has proven a major factor in causing discomfort and confinement in women having large busts.

It will thus be seen that there is provided an undergarment construction of the character described whereby the several objects of this invention are achieved and which will be well adapted to meet the conditions of prac tical use.

As various possible embodiments might be made of the above invention, and as various changes might be made in the embodiments above set forth, it is to be understood that all matter herein set forth or shown in the accompanying drawing is to be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desired to secure by Letters Patent:

1. A shoulder strapless brassiere, comprising a body encircling band having spaced breast cups and an elongated waist encircling portion including a bottom edge for overlying a top edge of a girdle of a wearer, wire breast supporting means extending about a peripheral portion of said cups, spaced apart resilient stays extending along the height of the brassiere, said stays including a pair, one associated with each breast cup and having one end thereof projecting downwardly beyond said brassiere bottom edge for interlockingly engaging said girdle in supporting relation and an opposite end cooperatively extending to a portion of said wire breast supporting means.

2. The shoulder strapless brassiere as defined in claim 1, including a second pair of stays extending through the height of the brassiere in the rear portion thereof having ends projecting downwardly beyond said brassire bottom edge for interlockingly engaging said girdle in supporting relation.

3. The shoulder strapless brassiere defined in claim 1 in which said pair of downwardly projecting stays are adapted to extend in substantial alignment with the front of the wearers armpits.

4. The shoulder strapless brassiere defined in claim 1 including a central panel between said spaced breast cups adapted to overlie the sternum of the wearer, said pair of downwardly projecting stays extending along opposite sides of said central panel.

In a foundation undergarment of the character described, a brassiere of the shoulder strapless type having breast cups each formed with a wire breast supporting means extending about a peripheral portion of said cup, and spaced apart stays having ends thereof projecting downwardly beyond a bottom edge portion of the brassiere, said bottom edge portion being adapted to overlie an upper edge portion of a girdle with which said stay ends interlockingly engage in supporting relation, at least one of said stays being secured to and extending along a wall of each cup to the apex region thereof and across said wire breast supporting means, said last mentioned stay being deflectable to conform said cup to a desired bulbous contour of a wearers breast.

6. In combination, a long-waisted brassiere of the shoulder strapless type having a bottom edge portion and spaced apart stays extending transverse the brassiere at substantially right angles tothe bottom edge, said stays having ends projecting downwardly beyond said bottom edge, a girdle having an upper edge portion underlying said brassiere bottom edge portion, said brassiere having breast cups each formed with a wire breast supporting means extending about a peripheral portion of said cups, and pockets carried by the girdle with top openings thereof positioned in registered alignment below said bottom edge through which said stay ends extend for interlockingly engaging and supporting said stays against pressure force from the brassrere to the girdle, said projecting stays extending to and supporting said wire breast supporting means.

7. In combination, a long-waisted brassiere of the shoulder strapless type having spaced apart stays, the stay ends of which project beyond a bottom edge portion of said brassire, a girdle having an upper edge portion underlying said brassiere bottom edge portion, said brassiere having front panels each formed with a breast cup having reinforcing means secured thereto, and pockets carried by the girdle with top openings thereof positioned in registered alignment below said bottom edge portion through which said stay ends extend for interlockingly engaging and supporting said stays against pressure forces from the brassiere to the girdle, said projecting stays extending to and supporting said reinforcing means, said projecting stays including a pair, one of which is adapted to lie substantially in alignment with the front of each of the wearers armpits and extending to cooperate with a portion of said wire breast supporting means.

8. In combination, a long-waisted brassiere of the shoulder strapless type having spaced apart stays, the stay ends of which project beyond a bottom edge portion of said brassiere, a girdle having an upper edge portion underlying said brassiere bottom edge portion, said brassiere having front panels each formed with a breast cup and with wire breast supporting means extending about a peripheral portion of said cup, and pockets carried by the girdle with top openings thereof positioned in registered alignment below said bottom edge portion through which said stay ends extend for interlockingly engaging and supporting said stays against pressure forces from the brassiere to the girdle, said projecting stays extending to and supporting said wire breast supporting means, said projecting stays including a pair, one of which is substantially in alignment with the apex of each of said breast cups and extending to said apex, portions of each of said stays crossing said Wire breast supporting means and being deflectable to conform said cup to a desired bulbous contour of the wearers breast.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,406,893 Nunn Sept. 3, 1946 2,601,679 Garnett July 1, 1952 2,605,469 Licht Aug. 5, 1952 2,628,357 Sider Feb. 17, 1953 FOREIGN PATENTS 605,893 France Sept. 3, 1946 

